Solid Perfumes

Perfume 101

Everything you need to talk about — and choose — fragrance with confidence.

EDP vs EDT vs Extrait — what's the difference?

It comes down to how much fragrance oil is in the bottle.

  • Extrait / Parfum — the richest (roughly 20–40% oil). Lasts longest, sits closest to the skin, use sparingly.
  • Eau de Parfum (EDP) — rich and long-lasting (roughly 15–20%). The everyday sweet spot for most people.
  • Eau de Toilette (EDT) — lighter and fresher (roughly 5–15%). Great for daytime and hot weather, may need a re-spray.
  • Eau de Cologne (EDC) — the lightest, a quick burst of freshness.

Higher concentration isn't always 'better' — a bright summer scent is often designed as an EDT on purpose.

How to test a perfume properly

Your nose is smartest in the first few minutes and then adapts, so test slowly:

  1. Spray one fragrance on skin (not paper) and give it 10–15 minutes — the opening notes fade and the real character appears.
  2. Don't test more than 2–3 at once, or they blur together. Coffee beans don't really 'reset' your nose — fresh air does.
  3. Revisit after a few hours to judge how it lasts. A scent you love at hour four is the one to buy.
How to make your fragrance last longer

A few easy habits dramatically improve longevity:

  • Moisturise first. Fragrance clings to hydrated skin; on dry skin it evaporates fast. Unscented lotion or even Vaseline on pulse points helps.
  • Spray pulse points — neck, behind ears, inner wrists, inner elbows — where warmth lifts the scent.
  • Don't rub your wrists together. It crushes the top notes.
  • Spray onto clothing/scarf too (test a hidden spot first) — fabric holds scent for days.
  • Store bottles away from heat and sunlight so the juice doesn't turn.
Reading the notes pyramid

A fragrance unfolds in three stages, shown as a pyramid:

  • Top notes — the first impression, lasting minutes. Usually bright: citrus, fruit, herbs.
  • Heart (middle) notes — the character of the scent, over the next hour or two. Often florals and spices.
  • Base notes — the foundation that lasts for hours and lingers on clothes: woods, amber, musk, vanilla.

When someone says a perfume 'opens fresh then dries down warm,' this is what they mean.

Fragrance families

Amber / Oriental

Warm, sweet and resinous — vanilla, labdanum and balsams that feel cosy and sensual. Cold-weather and evening favourites.

Woody

Dry and grounding — sandalwood, cedar, vetiver and oud. Sophisticated and long-lasting; reads as confident and mature.

Floral

Built around flowers — rose, jasmine, tuberose, muguet. Ranges from soft and powdery to lush and heady. The classic feminine backbone, though many modern florals are unisex.

Fresh / Citrus / Aromatic

Bright and clean — bergamot, lemon, mint, lavender and green accords. Energetic and daytime-friendly, great in heat.

Fougère (Aromatic)

The classic 'barbershop' structure — lavender, aromatic herbs and a mossy-woody base. Clean, masculine and versatile.

Chypre

A contrast of citrus top and mossy, patchouli-driven base. Elegant, a little old-world, very refined.

Gourmand

Good enough to eat — vanilla, caramel, chocolate, coffee, praline. Sweet, comforting and crowd-pleasing.

Aquatic / Marine

Watery, ozonic freshness — the smell of sea breeze and clean air. Casual and summery.

Note glossary A–Z

akigalawood — A spicy, oud-like modern wood note — peppery and refined.
amber — Warm, sweet, resinous 'glow' — cosy and sensual.
ambergris — Salty, warm, slightly animalic — adds radiance and depth.
ambroxan — A modern radiant amber-musk — the smooth, magnetic "clean skin" glow in many popular masculines.
apple — Crisp, fresh-fruity sweetness.
basil — Green aromatic herb, slightly peppery.
benzoin — Sweet, balsamic vanilla-like resin.
bergamot — Bright, slightly bitter citrus from a small Italian orange — the classic sparkling opening note.
birch — Smoky, leathery wood note.
black pepper — Dry, warm and spicy.
blackcurrant — Tart, jammy dark-berry note (aka cassis).
cade oil — Dark, tarry smoked wood — campfire depth.
caramel — Sweet, burnt-sugar gourmand note.
cardamom — Aromatic green spice, fresh and slightly sweet.
cashmeran — A cozy "cashmere woods" note — soft, warm, slightly musky.
cedar — Dry, sharp pencil-shaving wood.
chocolate — Rich cocoa sweetness.
cinnamon — Warm, sweet baking spice.
clary sage — Herbal and slightly sweet, with a soft tea-like earthiness.
coconut — Creamy, tropical, suntan-lotion warmth.
coffee — Roasted, bittersweet gourmand note.
cumin — Warm, earthy spice — adds a human, skin-like depth.
cypress — Green coniferous freshness — cool forest air.
davana — Fruity, boozy herb — apricot-like with a wine note.
elemi — Lemony, peppery resin — bright and incense-like.
galbanum — Intensely green, snapped-stem sharpness — adds freshness and bite.
geranium — Green, rosy and slightly minty — common in masculines.
ginger — Zesty, warming spice — bright and energetic.
grapefruit — Tart, pink-citrus freshness with a bitter edge.
green tea — Light, calming leafy freshness — clean and slightly sweet.
guaiac wood — Smoky, slightly sweet dry wood.
honey — Sweet, thick, slightly animalic floral-sweet note.
incense — Smoky, resinous, meditative (frankincense/olibanum).
iris — Powdery, elegant and slightly cool — expensive-smelling.
jasmine — Rich, heady white flower; sensual and slightly indolic.
juniper — Cool, crisp gin-like berry — piney freshness with a clean bite.
labdanum — Sweet, ambery resin; a backbone of oriental scents.
lavender — Aromatic, clean herb — the heart of 'barbershop' fougère scents.
leather — Smoky, suede-to-tar depending on treatment; bold and masculine.
lemon — Zesty, clean citrus that reads as fresh and energetic.
licorice — Dark, sweet anise — smooth and slightly mysterious.
lime — Sharp, zesty green citrus — instantly refreshing.
mandarin — Soft, sweet citrus, gentler than orange.
melon — Cool, watery summer fruit — airy and refreshing.
mint — Cool, green and refreshing.
muguet — Lily-of-the-valley — soft, green, dewy floral.
musk — Soft, clean, skin-like warmth that makes a scent feel intimate.
myrrh — Warm, balsamic resin — soft, slightly smoky sweetness.
neroli — Bright, honeyed orange-flower — sunny and clean.
nutmeg — Warm baking spice with a woody edge.
oakmoss — Damp, green, forest-floor note; the soul of a chypre.
orange — Sweet, juicy citrus; cheerful and rounded.
orange blossom — Honeyed, sunny white floral.
oud — Dark, resinous wood (agarwood) — smoky, rich and prized in Middle-Eastern perfumery.
patchouli — Dark, earthy and slightly sweet — a chypre and modern-masculine staple.
peach — Soft, juicy stone fruit — sweet and velvety.
pear — Crisp, watery-sweet orchard fruit — light and clean.
petitgrain — Green, slightly bitter twig-and-leaf citrus — crisp and cologne-like.
pineapple — Juicy tropical fruit — the signature bright note of many 'Aventus-style' scents.
pink pepper — Bright, sparkling peppery spice.
plum — Dark, jammy fruit — sweet with a wine-like depth.
praline — Sweet roasted nuts and caramelized sugar — rich dessert warmth.
rose — The queen of florals — can be fresh and dewy or deep and jammy.
rosemary — Sharp, invigorating green herb with a piney edge.
saffron — Warm, leathery-spicy note; luxurious and a little medicinal.
sage — Dry, green aromatic herb — savory and clean.
sandalwood — Creamy, soft and warm wood.
sea notes — The smell of sea breeze and salt air — cool, open and clean.
suede — Soft, powdery leather — smooth rather than smoky.
tangerine — Sweet, juicy easy-going citrus.
tobacco — Warm, sweet, dried-leaf richness.
tonka bean — Warm, almond-vanilla sweetness with a hint of hay.
tuberose — Creamy, intense white floral — lush and unmistakable.
vanilla — Sweet, creamy and comforting; softens and sweetens a base.
vetiver — Earthy, smoky-green root; sophisticated and grounding.
violet — Sweet, powdery purple floral with a green edge.